A bike-ice-bike kickoff to the Grand Teton National Park ice season in Cascade Canyon- a proper pump before a Tofurky feast on Indigenous People's Day.
Wet Pillar Laps – Teewinot North Guillies Left (WI4+) – GTNP, WY (11.21.23)
Season Ender on the Durrance Ridge (5.6, II) – Symmetry Spire – GTNP, WY (10.14.23)
The Durrance Ridge is a classic south-facing alpine moderate on Symmetry Spire. Our motivation to climb was two-fold: search for some lost gear the week prior, and enjoy a final alpine day before the impending onset of winter. Mini topo of the Durrance and Direct Jensen Ridges Wow! What a treat. After an adventurous outing... Continue Reading →
Burnout and Beauty on the Direct Jensen Ridge (5.8, III) – Symmetry Spire – GTNP, WY (10.08.23)
The Direct Jensen Ridge is a 1000 foot rock climb on the longest and most impressive south ridge of the 10,561 foot Symmetry Spire. This route was both memorable and taxing, as you'll soon read.
From the West Side – Heartbreak Ridge (5.7/5.8, III) – Table Mountain – GTNP, WY (09.24.23)
Table Mountain gets climbed 2.5 billion times each summer via Idaho and its popular "Face Trail", but its east aspect provides an entirely different challenge. Heartbreak Ridge is the premier moderate outing on the peak, with eight-ish pitches up to 5.7/5.8 on generally stellar granite.
Aim High – Manufactured Crisis (5.11, II) – Death Canyon – GTNP, WY (09.22.23)
After four days of relentless precipitation Connor James and I decided to give Manfactured Crisis a roll, despite neither of us being 5.11 alpine climbers. The result? A four pitch adventure that went "free" at 5.10 C0 - and now we have a project.
A Diamond In The Rough – Escape From Death (5.10-, II) – Cathedral Rock – GTNP, WY (09.11.23)
Escape From Death is a worthy five pitch outing on Cathedral Rock in Death Canyon, with an absolutely excellent crux pitch, on surprisingly great stone.
Breaking Barriers – Aerial Boundaries, FNG Variation (5.10c, II) – Cathedral Rock – GTNP, WY (09.02.23)
On Saturday Mike Parri and I climbed the FNG Variation to the classic Aerial Boundaries. This significant four-pitch variation is nearly it's own route, but benefits from a shared (and excellent) first pitch with the original. Unlike the original, it follows a natural line up a consistent geologic weakness through the upper buttress, with many pitches of physical 5.10 climbing.
Visceral Inspiration – The Widowmaker (5.9R, III) – Cathedral Rock, Death Canyon – GTNP, WY (08.24.23)
Established by Kevin Donald and Jim Erickson in 1969, The Widowmaker ascends perhaps the most impressive dihedral feature in Grand Teton National Park, characterized by abundant off-width, squeeze and chimney climbing on nearly every pitch, with supreme exposure, some loose rock and serious runouts - my wildest ride of 2023.
Raw Adventure – Direct North Ridge (5.8+, III) – Teewinot Mountain – GTNP, WY (08.12.23)
On August 12th, 2023, Connor James and I made a successful ascent of the Direct North Ridge on Teewinot Mountain. Graded 5.8 in 1957, this route had some wild old-school adventure flare, with extensive route-finding amidst a maze of generally high quality, but nondescript and at times quite poorly protected rock. Combine that with 12,000+ foot elevation, a bone chillingly shaded north aspect and a never-ending, unlikely, multiple thousand feet fourth and fifth class scrambling approach, and you have a recipe for a great day.
Teton’s Finest? – Irene’s Arete (5.8, III) – Disappointment Peak – GTNP, WY (07.30.23)
Irene's Arete is widely stated as the finest rock climb in Grand Teton National Park. Many variations are possible, but we sought the path of least resistance and cleared the ridge at 5.8, with truly remarkable positioning on a golden, awe inspiring knife's edge arete. Yep, she's a classic - but, THE classic? Oh, and we hit some traffic too.
Ten Thousand Too Far 