The North Face of Mount Wister was a visionary ski descent first accomplished by Adam Fabrikant, Billy Haas and Micheal Gardner in the spring of 2023. On April 4th, 2024 I made the second descent, and first solo descent, of this incredible line that will hopefully attract more eyes. This was one of my finest days in the mountains to date.
Threading The Needle – A Stormy Descent of the Bubble Fun Couloir – Buck Mountain – GTNP, WY (03.25.24)
The Bubble Fun Couloir is on the short list of most demanding steep ski descents in the Teton Range - an 1,100 foot masterpiece that holds 50 degrees for hundreds of feet, pushes 60 degrees in hallway width chokes, and hangs dramatically above Avalanche Canyon with an eerie 200+ foot exit cliff. The stuff of dreams - or nightmares.
Ski Alpinism Vol. 2 – Direct South Ridge (5.7+, III) to Spooky Face Ski Descent – Nez Perce – GTNP, WY (03.20.24)
On Wednesday March 20th, Hayden Evans and I climbed the Direct South Ridge (5.7+, III) on 11,901 foot Nez Perce, and made a powdery ski descent of the North "Spooky" Face into the East Hourglass Couloir and Garnet Canyon, one day removed from a "calendar winter" ascent.
Wet Pillar Laps – Teewinot North Guillies Left (WI4+) – GTNP, WY (11.21.23)
A bike-ice-bike kickoff to the Grand Teton National Park ice season in Cascade Canyon- a proper pump before a Tofurky feast on Indigenous People's Day.
Season Ender on the Durrance Ridge (5.6, II) – Symmetry Spire – GTNP, WY (10.14.23)
The Durrance Ridge is a classic south-facing alpine moderate on Symmetry Spire. Our motivation to climb was two-fold: search for some lost gear the week prior, and enjoy a final alpine day before the impending onset of winter. Mini topo of the Durrance and Direct Jensen Ridges Wow! What a treat. After an adventurous outing... Continue Reading →
Burnout and Beauty on the Direct Jensen Ridge (5.8, III) – Symmetry Spire – GTNP, WY (10.08.23)
The Direct Jensen Ridge is a 1000 foot rock climb on the longest and most impressive south ridge of the 10,561 foot Symmetry Spire. This route was both memorable and taxing, as you'll soon read.
From the West Side – Heartbreak Ridge (5.7/5.8, III) – Table Mountain – GTNP, WY (09.24.23)
Table Mountain gets climbed 2.5 billion times each summer via Idaho and its popular "Face Trail", but its east aspect provides an entirely different challenge. Heartbreak Ridge is the premier moderate outing on the peak, with eight-ish pitches up to 5.7/5.8 on generally stellar granite.
Aim High – Manufactured Crisis (5.11, II) – Death Canyon – GTNP, WY (09.22.23)
After four days of relentless precipitation Connor James and I decided to give Manfactured Crisis a roll, despite neither of us being 5.11 alpine climbers. The result? A four pitch adventure that went "free" at 5.10 C0 - and now we have a project.
A Diamond In The Rough – Escape From Death (5.10-, II) – Cathedral Rock – GTNP, WY (09.11.23)
Escape From Death is a worthy five pitch outing on Cathedral Rock in Death Canyon, with an absolutely excellent crux pitch, on surprisingly great stone.
Breaking Barriers – Aerial Boundaries, FNG Variation (5.10c, II) – Cathedral Rock – GTNP, WY (09.02.23)
On Saturday Mike Parri and I climbed the FNG Variation to the classic Aerial Boundaries. This significant four-pitch variation is nearly it's own route, but benefits from a shared (and excellent) first pitch with the original. Unlike the original, it follows a natural line up a consistent geologic weakness through the upper buttress, with many pitches of physical 5.10 climbing.