On August 15th Drew Grasso and I scurried the Upper Exum Ridge (5.5, II) for his first, and my thirteenth, Grand Teton summit. This was my third time on the route, but only the second with a rope. On this day we aimed to find the perfect balance between minimalism and security for a roped ascent. Here lies an exceedingly nerdy article oriented towards climbers, detailing our light rack and specific techniques for moving through this notoriously long 1000' route with a short 30 meter rope.
Dipping My Toes – Chouinard Ridge Free Solo (5.5, II) – Middle Teton – GTNP, WY (07.21.24)
I've been battling a partial rotator cuff tear this summer, so I've been dipping my toes into the dark arts of rope-less climbing as a way to score significant mileage on easy terrain. The Chouinard Ridge provides a 1,600' vertical adventure on clean-as-a-whistle Middle Teton granite.
Grand Wall Topo and Southwest Face Routes – Teton Canyon, Wyoming (July 2024)
I finally got around to making a modern topo for the excellent multi-pitch rock climbs on the Southwest Face of Teton Canyon's Grand Wall. As of July 2024 there are four routes on the Southwest Face, all with their own flare. Wild Kingdom (5.7) is likely the most popular, offering enjoyable climbing and good protection... Continue Reading →
Revisiting Dihedral Of Horrors (5.9, II), and the 5.10 First Pitch Variation – Ship’s Prow – GTNP, WY (07.07.24)
On Sunday July 7th Bobbi Clemmer and I climbed the uber-classic Dihedral of Horrors including the seldom climbed first pitch 5.10 variation. Because DOH has been documented on 10K2Far before, this article serves mostly to touch on the underrated 5.10 variation that more folks should climb.
Back in the Park! – Blobular Oscillations (5.10- PG13) and Guide’s Wall (5.8, II) – Storm Point – GTNP, WY (06.31.24)
I was pretty psyched to flash Blobular Oscillations, a renowned runout 5.10- variation to the first pitch of Guide's Wall, and thought it a good excuse to talk about our whole day. Guide's Wall has never been covered on 10K2Far because it's one of the few super well documented multi-pitch outings in GTNP, but maybe I can add a tidbit or two to the collective knowledge.
This Ain’t No Guide’s Wall – East Face, South Buttress (5.9+, III) – Table Mountain – GTNP, WY (06.23.24)
On Sunday June 23rd Justin Gilbert and I clawed up the equally remarkable and unexpectedly difficult 1961 South Buttress route on the 1400 foot East Face of Table Mountain. 10 pitches, 15 hours, 15 miles and 5000 vertical feet later we were slightly busted, but far more stoked.
A Quickie from Mount Woodring – Southwest Couloir Ski Descent – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (05.16.24)
On May 16th I spontaneously skied the relatively unknown Southwest Couloir on Mount Woodring after bailing from a different objective. What I found was top quality moderate ski mountaineering adventure on par with the Banana Couloir, Static Peak and Rockchuck Peak. Here's a quick trip report.
Sending 5.11 – Five Things I Learned in My First Year of Climbing
One year ago (Sept. 2020) I bought my first pair of climbing shoes. My cardinal goal was simple - 5.11 by day 365. By month 11 the chains were clipped, and along the way I learned many lessons. From sport to trad, alpine faces to lowland boulders, I pushed my limits. This article is a distillation of my first year climbing experience - the article I wish I read as a budding and infinitely inspired young climber.
Tales of a First Time Canyoneer – Baptist Draw and Chute Canyon – San Rafael Swell, Utah
In October 2020 Bobbi Clemmer and I dipped into our first respective slot canyon, Baptist Draw in Utah's San Rafael Swell. A story about mind control, redemption and the wondrous world of slot canyoneering
8 Days – 212 Miles – An Unsupported Journey on the John Muir Trail
In 7 days and 21 hours, I hiked all 212 miles of the John Muir Trail, entirely unsupported, from Yosemite National Park to the summit of Mount Whitney. A life-altering journey through the "Range of Light" (Repost, 2019)