On August 12th, 2023, Connor James and I made a successful ascent of the Direct North Ridge on Teewinot Mountain. Graded 5.8 in 1957, this route had some wild old-school adventure flare, with extensive route-finding amidst a maze of generally high quality, but nondescript and at times quite poorly protected rock. Combine that with 12,000+ foot elevation, a bone chillingly shaded north aspect and a never-ending, unlikely, multiple thousand feet fourth and fifth class scrambling approach, and you have a recipe for a great day.
Teton’s Finest? – Irene’s Arete (5.8, III) – Disappointment Peak – GTNP, WY (07.30.23)
Irene's Arete is widely stated as the finest rock climb in Grand Teton National Park. Many variations are possible, but we sought the path of least resistance and cleared the ridge at 5.8, with truly remarkable positioning on a golden, awe inspiring knife's edge arete. Yep, she's a classic - but, THE classic? Oh, and we hit some traffic too.
Contrived? – Vieux Guide (5.10b/c, II) – Storm Point – GTNP, WY (07.16.23)
Vieux Guide is a five pitch alternative to the standard Guide's Wall route, meeting the classic Flake Ledge after 4 pitches up to 5.9, and tackling a burly 5.10 roof crack before traversing to the final Guide's Wall pitch. Though established by "two highly regarded climbers" of the previous generation, I was disenchanted by this pretty contrived route - but a few gems are worth noting, as they can be accessed and enjoyed without climbing the entire route.
Finding The Alpine Flow – The Corkscrew (5.8+, II) – The Watchtower – GTNP, WY (07.01.23)
On July 1st, 2023, Bobbi Clemmer and I found our flow on one of our favorite GTNP routes to date, the Corkscrew Arete on the Watchtower, one of the many freestanding spires between The Grand Teton and Disappointment Peak.