On November 30th Bobbi and I dusted off the Thanksgiving rust with a quick lap on the Tahquitz moderate classic, Fingertrip.
LEAD ROPE SOLO – El Whampo, Direct Start (5.9, III, 800′) – Tahquitz Rock – Idyllwild, CA (09.06.25)
On Saturday September 6th, 2025, I lead rope soloed my first multi-pitch route! El Whampo (5.7, II), and it's direct start via El Grandote (5.9, III), are respective classics on the legendary Tahquitz Rock.
Vertical Spelunking – Tunnel Vision (5.7+ R, 6 pitches, 770′) – Angel Food Wall – Red Rocks NCA, NV (08.30.25)
Tunnel Vision is the most unique route I've encountered in my climbing career. Four pitches of wild chimneys and wide cracks lead to the namesake "tunnel pitch", a 30 meter diagonal bombay chimney which passes through an incredible varnished tunnel almost dark enough for a headlamp. This is three dimensional climbing at its finest, and a must climb for the grade anywhere!
Commitment – Joshua Tree 2025 (Part One, Week One)
Bobbi Clemmer and I returned to Joshua Tree National Park for our second annual two week winter escape, where we climbed... and climbed... and climbed. This article is split into two parts, and features a brief creative piece on commitment as well as a traditional trip report.
From The Archives: Joshua Tree 2024
An unpublished account from a two week trip to Joshua Tree National Park in January and February 2024. Two new crack climbers set to work in splitter granite paradise, covering as many moderate classics as possible, and getting sandbagged along the way. A full tick list and recommendations is included for new Josh climbers. A... Continue Reading →
Peanut Swings Leads on the Buckingham Ridge (5.7, III) – Middle Teton – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (09.08.24)
On September 8th, 2024, Bobbi Clemmer and I climbed the classic Southeast "Buckingham" Ridge on the 12,809 foot Middle Teton via an overnight camp in the South Fork of Garnet Canyon. It was Bobbi's first time swinging leads on an alpine climb, at pretty darn high elevation no less.
Almost Leisurely – Direct South Ridge (5.7+, III) – Nez Perce – GTNP, WY (09.16.23)
Two weekends ago Ricky Bobbi and I packed sparkly waters and fresh produce into high places, and enjoyed an awesome, almost leisurely, camp-to-camp ascent of Nez Perce's acclaimed Direct South Ridge (5.7+, III) over three days.
Ice Cream Cone Topo – West Crack (5.7) – Grand Teton Nat. Park (2022)
The west crack of the "Ice Cream Cone" (USGS ~12,405) in Grand Teton National Park is the most popular route of ascent for southbound Grand Traverse parties. To my knowledge there is no existing topo for this route on the internet. This "post" is nothing more than a photo and route description for future parties. Bobbi Clemmer and I climbed this route as part of a longer traverse on August 21st, 2022.
Fun Every Time – East Ridge (5.7, II), Disappointment Peak, Grand Teton N.P. (07.09.22)
Disappointment Peak's East Ridge is perhaps the best moderate multi-pitch alpine climb in Grand Teton National Park. Ease of access combines with straightforward route finding, sound rock and epic views to create a one-of-a-kind 5.7 Teton experience. As Bobbi's first alpine climb of the year, we sought this route in hopes of landing her first true alpine lead and park summit of summer 2022.