Rock Climbing – Ice Climbing – Ski Mountaineering
A day of high-desert ice climbing in the stunning Joe's Valley, including an ascent of the revered Donorcicle (WI5) - a 100 foot freestanding pillar.
Coat's Corner (WI4) and Inspired By Gravity (WI4-5) are the two classic climbs of Huntington Canyon, an overlooked ice venue nestled into the heart of Utah's high desert.
Over December and January I climbed and equipped two new or seldom visited routes in the South Fork of Teton Canyon that may be "Rusty's Smears", with three different partners.
On December 5th, 2024, Vinny Gwinn and I climbed the North Face of Mount Borah (AI2, 5.4, III) after retreating from the nearby Psycho Therapy (5.9+, M6, WI4, III) due to a lack of ice.
An unpublished account from a two week trip to Joshua Tree National Park in January and February 2024. Two new crack climbers set to work in splitter granite paradise, covering as many moderate classics as possible, and getting sandbagged along the way. A full tick list and recommendations is included for new Josh climbers.
Surf's up in Teton Canyon. On December 14th I climbed Landslide (WI4, II) with Bobbi Clemmer and Brian Emory. Alongside this very short trip report is a full ice report from the canyon, where most routes are in good shape.
The South Couloir of Albright Peak, not to be confused with the massive "Southeast Couloir" drainage running directly to Phelps Lake, is a 3,000 foot fall-line descent with a variety of terrain, including a quirky approach, exposed entry, and a few tight chokes that may or may not beckon a rope.
The Alpine Peanut has become an ice climber, so we headed to arguably Grand Teton National Park's most classic winter ice route - Prospector Falls. We worked our way up the main flow at solid WI4.
A few photos and notes from three successful early season ice climbing days in Teton Canyon. The canyon is coming into shape well. A full conditions report from all TC climbs at the bottom.
High Fidelity is a classic early season multi-pitch ice and mixed adventure in Hyalite Canyon, understated at the WI3+, M4 grade. Our thin conditions produced a climb closer to WI4, M5+. I was joined by the Alpine Peanut herself, a proud effort for her third day ever ice climbing. Winter is here!!
Ten Thousand Too Far 