The Dike Route is a captivating 3000' alpine climb that ascends the east face of the 12,809' Middle Teton and it's eastern sub-peak, the 12,350' Dike Pinnacle, by way of a striking diabase dike gawked at by Garnet Canyon travelers far and wide. The "climb" is better classified as a full spectrum mountaineering adventure, with technical rock climbing up to 5.6, route finding difficulties, loose rock, several rappels, a runout traverse pitch, excessive third class scrambling, a long descent and mandatory steep snow crossings. On August 20th, 2022 I ticked the long desired beast with my girlfriend, Bobbi Clemmer, as her first grade IV - an epic one to say the least.
An Old-School Adventure – Almost Overhanging (5.9, III), Almost Arete – Disappointment Peak, Grand Teton Nat. Park (08.14.22)
On Sunday August 14th, 2022, Alex Wells joined my obscure vision to climb Almost Overhanging, an 850 foot, 7 pitch, seldom climbed route on Disappointment Peak's Almost Arete. What we found was a "logical" line seriously lacking in traffic though deserving of more, with sound rock where it counted and an exciting variety of climbing styles. If Almost Overhanging could gain some traction, I believe it would stand with Open Book as another high-quality short-approach Garnet Canyon moderate, and help distribute some congestion from other routes in the area.
Coffee Cake and Quartz Crystals on the Taminah Arete (5.9, III) – Matternought Peak, Grand Teton N.P. (08.07.22)
The Taminah Arete (5.9, III) ascends the prominent aesthetic south ridge of Matternought Peak, an 11,360 foot southern spur of the larger Gilkey Tower. On Sunday August 7th, 2022, Liam Wylie and I completed the climb in 19 hours car-to-car - one of our finest Teton adventures, though perhaps a tent would have served us well.
First Teton 5.10 – Climbing The Snaz (5.10a, IV), Cathedral Rock, Grand Teton N.P. (07.31.22)
The Snaz is an ultra-ultra-classic 800 foot, grade IV, 5.10- rock route on the south face of Albright Peak in Grand Teton National Park, first established by Yvon Chouinard & Mort Hempel in 1964. With an emphasis on wide cracks and a big crux roof, the Snaz played to my weaknesses for a supremely challenging outing.
Addicted to the Shindig – Open Book (5.9+, III) – Disappointment Peak, Grand Teton N.P. (07.24.22)
On July 24th, Liam Wylie and I climbed Open Book, a six pitch, 450 foot, grade III rock route on the southeast face of Grunt Arete, the first rock feature east of Disappointment Peak's SE Ridge, beginning in Garnet Canyon. Open Book is a Teton classic by all standards, with a stacked deck of unrelenting 5.8+ to 5.10- climbing above dramatic exposure. We finished the route in about eleven hours car to car, and had a tremendous time doing so.
Fun Every Time – East Ridge (5.7, II), Disappointment Peak, Grand Teton N.P. (07.09.22)
Disappointment Peak's East Ridge is perhaps the best moderate multi-pitch alpine climb in Grand Teton National Park. Ease of access combines with straightforward route finding, sound rock and epic views to create a one-of-a-kind 5.7 Teton experience. As Bobbi's first alpine climb of the year, we sought this route in hopes of landing her first true alpine lead and park summit of summer 2022.
Thou Shall Not Fall – Chouinard-Frost Chimney (5.9, IV) – Disappointment Peak, Grand Teton N.P. (07.10.22)
The Chouinard-Frost Chimney (5.9, IV) is a notoriously old-school rock route on the north face of 11,623 foot Disappointment Peak in Grand Teton National Park. Run-outs, loose rock, visionary traverses and a very real sense of adventure characterize this "classic" Teton route.
In The Name Of Friendship – Skiing the Grand Teton’s Ford-Stettner Couloir in June – GT Nat. Park (06.08.22)
On June 8th, 2022, Carl Osterburg and I skied the Grand Teton via the traditional "Ford-Stettner Couloir" Route. This was Carl's first and my fourth Grand Teton ski descent, a mission propelled by one sole purpose, enjoying a final day in the mountains with my best Teton friend before he packs up and moves to Minnesota. Can you think of a better sendoff? I can't, because there isn't one.
A Winter of Gratitude – 2022 Ski Recap, Five Things I Learned and My Favorite Photos (2022)
The winter of 2021/22 was far and above my best yet. I skied more steep lines in the Tetons, with a wider array of partners, than I have in the past three seasons combined, and was left with an overwhelming sense of gratitude.
Backyard Ice – Boy Scout Falls (WI3) – Teton Canyon, WY (03.2022)
Sifting through half written blog drafts from this past winter, I decided to finish up this short trip report for the sake of completeness - and to share some of my favorite pictures. Though far from a destination route, Boy Scout Falls provides an excellent moderate multi-pitch ice experience with easy access from the "Idaho... Continue Reading →