Rock Climbing – Ice Climbing – Ski Mountaineering
The Moratorium (WI4) is the longest continuous waterfall ice climb (~100M, 300 feet) in the South Fork of the Shoshone River. High On Boulder is a three-pitch true classic at the WI4 grade, and when connected with the Pillar Of Pain, forms a five pitch alpine style route with two additional pitches up to WI5/6.
The Eagle Scout Pillar, a.k.a. Mack-Tyson Pillar, is perhaps the gem of steep waterfall ice in the Teton Range. Tucked into the deep recedes of Teton Canyon, "the pillar" provides a consistent 35M of vertical or overhanging climbing ranging anywhere from WI5- to WI6R. On a fine snowy Sunday, Jorge Hedreen and I both led... Continue Reading →
Golden Tears (tiers?) may the "most classic" waterfall ice climb in the greater Jackson Hole area, with 500 feet of terraced WI4/WI4+ climbing above Lake Louise and the sleepy town of Dubois, Wyoming. Finding the beast in suitable attire can be finicky business, as some years the lower pitches don't form at all, but on Thursday February 2nd, 2023, Jorge Hedreen and I scored big in full ice conditions.
The hanging WI5-6 dagger of "Mummy Four" stands as the single most impressive ice formation on the east side of Hyalite Canyon besides the ever famous Winter Dance. To reach it, Chris Hackbarth and I climbed the Scepter (WI5) and "Mummy Three" (M6, WI3) in what turned out to be an excellent grade three kind-of day in Hyalite Canyon - an alpine style climb in the land known for short approach ice cragging.
A first hand account of a "bomber" piton ripping from a rappel anchor while ski mountaineering in the remote necks of Grand Teton National Park. Amidst a growing climate of "two-piece" alpine anchors, this article presents a compelling argument for placing a third, especially when pitons are involved. Carl rappelling from four-pieces in the Tallboy's... Continue Reading →
On December 16th I got out for my first steep ski of 2022/23 in the ever-popular Four Hour Couloir on Shadow Peak. Not surprisingly it was well hacked by at least three parties, but the snow was soft enough for an enjoyable and quick morning lap before heading off to Utah for Christmas break. This was my third time skiing the Four Hour. Recon photos of the Sliver Couloir included.
On Saturday the 17th of December, 2022, Colten Moore and I climbed a local-classic link-up of Squash Head (WI4, II) and Backoff (WI4, II), for a total of four stunning pitches in the beautiful and sleepy Santaquin Canyon of Utah's Uinta Mountains.
Early season ice on the south side of Teton Canyon with Connor James - Lehman's Lament (WI3R) and Green Pea (WI4+)
As the 2022/23 winter is slow to ramp up, and I'm still spending time digesting my Thanksgiving meal with family, I figured I would add this short bight from what was perhaps my first "real" Teton ski mountaineering descent - the famed Spoon Couloir on Disappointment Peak - circa 2018. Are you ready? (trip report... Continue Reading →
An updated and thorough topo of the Chouinard-Frost Chimney on the north face of Disappointment Peak in Grand Teton National Park.
Ten Thousand Too Far 