Rock Climbing – Ice Climbing – Ski Mountaineering
"The Gap" is an unlikely quartzite climbing area just south of Pocatello, Idaho, known for long winter mixed routes up to 1200 feet rising directly from the road. Jed Porter and I unknowingly climbed a first ascent while looking for the Alpine Simulator in a winter storm - thankfully, our route was excellent! We named... Continue Reading →
A quick conditions report with photos from Teton Canyon on November 29th, 2023, with a few notes on GTNP route conditions. Today my partner and I biked into Teton Canyon in search of ice. We hiked to all the south facing climbs but didn't find anything in climbable shape. The Landslide Pillar (Waterfall Wall Area)... Continue Reading →
A bike-ice-bike kickoff to the Grand Teton National Park ice season in Cascade Canyon- a proper pump before a Tofurky feast on Indigenous People's Day.
Styrofoam Boots, also known as Spinxinated and formally the "Unknown Route", is an ephemeral gem that only forms "every decade or so" on the North Face of Sphinx Mountain. For us it was difficult and testing mixed climb of the highest quality - the route's first ascent of the season and perhaps of many years.
The North Face of Sphinx Mountain is a renowned early season ice venue outside of Cameron, Montana. The Lowe Route is the trade fare, which can be climbed anywhere from WI5 to WI3 to M5. We found it in WI4 and ever so slightly mixed conditions. First ice of the season baby!
Sheep Creek Peak, not to be confused with Sheep Mountain, is the king of the Little Elk drainage in Idaho's Palisades Range, standing just shy of 10,000 feet and boasting ~4,300 feet of quality skiable vert above the Palisades Reservoir - a true skier's mountain.
Not a trip report. A few notes on an unsuccessful trip to the dark side of Mount Borah, with beta pictures of the North Face (AI2), Psycho Therapy (AI4, M6), Borah Borah Borah (WI3, 5.7) and some bonus ice.
Bear Lodge is the indigenous name for the iconic 867 foot free-standing igneous monolith commonly known as Devils Tower. The Durrance (5.8, II) is the easiest route up Bear Lodge, with pitch after pitch of slippery, old-school, wide crack climbing.
The Needles host some of the boldest old-school trad lines in the country, with rich history on amazing granite pillars. Bobbi Clemmer, Carl Osterburg, Bailey Haus and I sampled some of the moderate four-star classics over two days, including Threading the Needle (5.8+ R/X), Tricouni Nail (5.8 R) and Tent Peg (5.7 R).
The Durrance Ridge is a classic south-facing alpine moderate on Symmetry Spire. Our motivation to climb was two-fold: search for some lost gear the week prior, and enjoy a final alpine day before the impending onset of winter. Mini topo of the Durrance and Direct Jensen Ridges Wow! What a treat. After an adventurous outing... Continue Reading →
Ten Thousand Too Far 