Raw Adventure – Direct North Ridge (5.8+, III) – Teewinot Mountain – GTNP, WY (08.12.23)

On August 12th, 2023, Connor James and I made a successful ascent of the Direct North Ridge on Teewinot Mountain. Graded 5.8 in 1957, this route had some wild old-school adventure flare, with extensive route-finding amidst a maze of generally high quality, but nondescript and at times quite poorly protected rock. Combine that with 12,000+ foot elevation, a bone chillingly shaded north aspect and a never-ending, unlikely, multiple thousand feet fourth and fifth class scrambling approach, and you have a recipe for a great day.

August 23, 2023 0

Teton’s Finest? – Irene’s Arete (5.8, III) – Disappointment Peak – GTNP, WY (07.30.23)

Irene's Arete is widely stated as the finest rock climb in Grand Teton National Park. Many variations are possible, but we sought the path of least resistance and cleared the ridge at 5.8, with truly remarkable positioning on a golden, awe inspiring knife's edge arete. Yep, she's a classic - but, THE classic? Oh, and we hit some traffic too.

August 20, 2023 4

Contrived? – Vieux Guide (5.10b/c, II) – Storm Point – GTNP, WY (07.16.23)

Vieux Guide is a five pitch alternative to the standard Guide's Wall route, meeting the classic Flake Ledge after 4 pitches up to 5.9, and tackling a burly 5.10 roof crack before traversing to the final Guide's Wall pitch. Though established by "two highly regarded climbers" of the previous generation, I was disenchanted by this pretty contrived route - but a few gems are worth noting, as they can be accessed and enjoyed without climbing the entire route.

August 7, 2023 3

The Snake (5.10c, II) – Yosemite Peak – GTNP, WY (07.14.23)

The Snake is a challenging four pitch outing in the deep caverns of Cascade Canyon, defended by a 6.5 mile trail approach that deters most parties for the length of the route. That said, it's a logical and attractive line on mostly sound rock, with two pitches of difficult 5.10 climbing.

August 2, 2023 1

FULL Value – Durrance Direct to Upper Exum Ridge (Direct Exum Ridge) (5.7, IV) – Grand Teton – GTNP, WY (07.09.23)

The "Complete Exum" - "Full Exum" - "Direct Exum" - "Durrance Direct to Upper Exum" - whatever you want to call it, this 1,700 foot skyline route is one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America for a reason. You can see it from just about anywhere within 100 miles, and pitch for pitch holds some of the best alpine rock climbing in the Tetons, on the tallest and most impressive peak in the Tetons.

July 28, 2023 5

Finding The Alpine Flow – The Corkscrew (5.8+, II) – The Watchtower – GTNP, WY (07.01.23)

On July 1st, 2023, Bobbi Clemmer and I found our flow on one of our favorite GTNP routes to date, the Corkscrew Arete on the Watchtower, one of the many freestanding spires between The Grand Teton and Disappointment Peak.

July 18, 2023 1

Just Plain Fun – The Bee’s Knees (5.9, II) – Prospectors Mountain – GTNP, WY (06.25.23)

The Bee's Knees is a newly developed four pitch route on the shady north wall of Prospectors Mountain, a worthy addition to an area flooded with classics.

July 16, 2023 0

Benighted in Cascade Canyon – (A Climb On) Trinity Buttress (5.9+, III) – GTNP, WY (06.24.23)

On Saturday June 24th Bobbi Clemmer and I got benighted on a wild ascent of a wet Trinity Buttress (a.k.a. Symmetry Crag 4). Originally graded 5.9 by Yvon Chouinard and T.M. Herbert in 1970, the climb ascends two-thirds of the major rock buttress west of the popular Guide's Wall with a few stellar, and a few not so stellar, pitches.

July 6, 2023 2

Reigniting A Classic – Hot Dogs (5.9, I) – Guide’s Wall East, Storm Point – GTNP (06.17.23)

Hot Dogs, first established by Paul Gagner and Jim Woodmency in July of 1986, is an excellent single pitch 5.9 crack climb on the south buttress of Storm Point, about 100M east of Guide's Wall - perhaps the best 5.9 pitch I've climbed in Grand Teton National Park. If you're in the area and need another pitch, don't miss this!

June 20, 2023 1

A 70’s Adventure – Man O’ War (5.9, II) – Ship’s Prow – GTNP, WY (06.06.23)

On Tuesday June 6th, Connor James and I climbed another could-be-classic from the Ortenburger-Jackson book. It has a cool name, follows a very proud line and, as typical for Teton routes established in the 70's, felt pretty stiff for 5.8.

June 12, 2023 1