On Sunday March 17th, 2024, Chase Krumholz and I played with some ski alpinism tactics - linking a climb of the famous Irene's Arete (5.8, III) with ski descent of the classic Spoon Couloir on Disappointment Peak. Rock climbing with skis - get weird!
Season Ender on the Durrance Ridge (5.6, II) – Symmetry Spire – GTNP, WY (10.14.23)
The Durrance Ridge is a classic south-facing alpine moderate on Symmetry Spire. Our motivation to climb was two-fold: search for some lost gear the week prior, and enjoy a final alpine day before the impending onset of winter. Mini topo of the Durrance and Direct Jensen Ridges Wow! What a treat. After an adventurous outing... Continue Reading →
Burnout and Beauty on the Direct Jensen Ridge (5.8, III) – Symmetry Spire – GTNP, WY (10.08.23)
The Direct Jensen Ridge is a 1000 foot rock climb on the longest and most impressive south ridge of the 10,561 foot Symmetry Spire. This route was both memorable and taxing, as you'll soon read.
From the West Side – Heartbreak Ridge (5.7/5.8, III) – Table Mountain – GTNP, WY (09.24.23)
Table Mountain gets climbed 2.5 billion times each summer via Idaho and its popular "Face Trail", but its east aspect provides an entirely different challenge. Heartbreak Ridge is the premier moderate outing on the peak, with eight-ish pitches up to 5.7/5.8 on generally stellar granite.
Aim High – Manufactured Crisis (5.11, II) – Death Canyon – GTNP, WY (09.22.23)
After four days of relentless precipitation Connor James and I decided to give Manfactured Crisis a roll, despite neither of us being 5.11 alpine climbers. The result? A four pitch adventure that went "free" at 5.10 C0 - and now we have a project.
Almost Leisurely – Direct South Ridge (5.7+, III) – Nez Perce – GTNP, WY (09.16.23)
Two weekends ago Ricky Bobbi and I packed sparkly waters and fresh produce into high places, and enjoyed an awesome, almost leisurely, camp-to-camp ascent of Nez Perce's acclaimed Direct South Ridge (5.7+, III) over three days.
A Diamond In The Rough – Escape From Death (5.10-, II) – Cathedral Rock – GTNP, WY (09.11.23)
Escape From Death is a worthy five pitch outing on Cathedral Rock in Death Canyon, with an absolutely excellent crux pitch, on surprisingly great stone.
Sound The Alarm – Armed Robbery (5.9, IV) – Cloudveil Dome – GTNP, WY (09.09.23)
On Saturday, September 9th, 2023, Liam Wylie and I climbed the sheer 1,000 foot South Face of Cloudveil Dome via the classic Armed Robbery (5.9, IV) route. This was by far my most efficient and seamless grade IV to date - a wonderful day out with a great friend.
Breaking Barriers – Aerial Boundaries, FNG Variation (5.10c, II) – Cathedral Rock – GTNP, WY (09.02.23)
On Saturday Mike Parri and I climbed the FNG Variation to the classic Aerial Boundaries. This significant four-pitch variation is nearly it's own route, but benefits from a shared (and excellent) first pitch with the original. Unlike the original, it follows a natural line up a consistent geologic weakness through the upper buttress, with many pitches of physical 5.10 climbing.
Visceral Inspiration – The Widowmaker (5.9R, III) – Cathedral Rock, Death Canyon – GTNP, WY (08.24.23)
Established by Kevin Donald and Jim Erickson in 1969, The Widowmaker ascends perhaps the most impressive dihedral feature in Grand Teton National Park, characterized by abundant off-width, squeeze and chimney climbing on nearly every pitch, with supreme exposure, some loose rock and serious runouts - my wildest ride of 2023.