The Snazette is an especially incredible two pitch 5.10c variation to one of the Teton's already great routes, The Snaz (5.10a, IV).
Ship’s Prow Triple – Cardiac Aretes, Annals Of Time and Dihedral Of Horrors in a Day (5.9, IV) – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (10.17.24)
On October 17th Lainey Fellows and I linked Cardiac Aretes, Annals Of Time and Dihedral Of Horrors for an absolutely classic day on three of Death Canyon's finest 5.9 routes - The Ship's Prow Triple.
Chasing Beyer – Vas Defrens (5.9+ R, IV) – Cathedral Rock – Grand Teton National Park, WY (09.21.24)
On Saturday September 21st, 2024, Greg Gwinn and I attempted to repeat the long forgotten Vas Defrens on Cathedral Rock, a 1000 foot "5.9 R" established by the legendary Jim Beyer and Buck Tilly in 1978.
Progress – Revisiting The Snaz (5.10-, IV) – Cathedral Rock – Grand Teton Nat. Park, WY (09.15.24)
On September 15th, 2024, Chris Morelli and I thrutched, wormed and grunted up the Snaz, an old-school, mega classic, ten pitch 5.10- on the commanding 1000 foot wall of Cathedral Buttress. I led all the crux pitches, and eight out of nine total pitches, which provided a far different challenge than swinging leads on the same climb two summers ago.
Revisiting Dihedral Of Horrors (5.9, II), and the 5.10 First Pitch Variation – Ship’s Prow – GTNP, WY (07.07.24)
On Sunday July 7th Bobbi Clemmer and I climbed the uber-classic Dihedral of Horrors including the seldom climbed first pitch 5.10 variation. Because DOH has been documented on 10K2Far before, this article serves mostly to touch on the underrated 5.10 variation that more folks should climb.
Aim High – Manufactured Crisis (5.11, II) – Death Canyon – GTNP, WY (09.22.23)
After four days of relentless precipitation Connor James and I decided to give Manfactured Crisis a roll, despite neither of us being 5.11 alpine climbers. The result? A four pitch adventure that went "free" at 5.10 C0 - and now we have a project.
A Diamond In The Rough – Escape From Death (5.10-, II) – Cathedral Rock – GTNP, WY (09.11.23)
Escape From Death is a worthy five pitch outing on Cathedral Rock in Death Canyon, with an absolutely excellent crux pitch, on surprisingly great stone.
Sound The Alarm – Armed Robbery (5.9, IV) – Cloudveil Dome – GTNP, WY (09.09.23)
On Saturday, September 9th, 2023, Liam Wylie and I climbed the sheer 1,000 foot South Face of Cloudveil Dome via the classic Armed Robbery (5.9, IV) route. This was by far my most efficient and seamless grade IV to date - a wonderful day out with a great friend.
Breaking Barriers – Aerial Boundaries, FNG Variation (5.10c, II) – Cathedral Rock – GTNP, WY (09.02.23)
On Saturday Mike Parri and I climbed the FNG Variation to the classic Aerial Boundaries. This significant four-pitch variation is nearly it's own route, but benefits from a shared (and excellent) first pitch with the original. Unlike the original, it follows a natural line up a consistent geologic weakness through the upper buttress, with many pitches of physical 5.10 climbing.
Visceral Inspiration – The Widowmaker (5.9R, III) – Cathedral Rock, Death Canyon – GTNP, WY (08.24.23)
Established by Kevin Donald and Jim Erickson in 1969, The Widowmaker ascends perhaps the most impressive dihedral feature in Grand Teton National Park, characterized by abundant off-width, squeeze and chimney climbing on nearly every pitch, with supreme exposure, some loose rock and serious runouts - my wildest ride of 2023.