Addendum: Irene’s Arete Variations, and a Direct Start! – Disappointment Peak – GTNP, WY (06.19.25)

On Thursday June 19th, 2025, I climbed Irene's Arete with new-to-the-Tetons desert coworker Kenzi Stemp, including a two pitch direct start which has surely been climbed before, but is undocumented and often skipped. Higher, we explored a few harder variations with pleasant rewards. This article will focus solely on the variations we climbed, and others I've climbed over the years, which add tremendous value to this already great route.

October 6, 2025 0

Ski Alpinism Vol. 1 – Irene’s Arete (5.8, III) to Spoon Couloir Ski Descent – Disappointment Peak – GTNP, WY (03.17.24)

On Sunday March 17th, 2024, Chase Krumholz and I played with some ski alpinism tactics - linking a climb of the famous Irene's Arete (5.8, III) with ski descent of the classic Spoon Couloir on Disappointment Peak. Rock climbing with skis - get weird!

March 25, 2024 2

Teton’s Finest? – Irene’s Arete (5.8, III) – Disappointment Peak – GTNP, WY (07.30.23)

Irene's Arete is widely stated as the finest rock climb in Grand Teton National Park. Many variations are possible, but we sought the path of least resistance and cleared the ridge at 5.8, with truly remarkable positioning on a golden, awe inspiring knife's edge arete. Yep, she's a classic - but, THE classic? Oh, and we hit some traffic too.

August 20, 2023 4

Finding The Alpine Flow – The Corkscrew (5.8+, II) – The Watchtower – GTNP, WY (07.01.23)

On July 1st, 2023, Bobbi Clemmer and I found our flow on one of our favorite GTNP routes to date, the Corkscrew Arete on the Watchtower, one of the many freestanding spires between The Grand Teton and Disappointment Peak.

July 18, 2023 1

[NEW] Chouinard-Frost Chimney (5.9+, IV) Topo – Disappointment Peak, North Face, Grand Teton Nat. Park (2022)

An updated and thorough topo of the Chouinard-Frost Chimney on the north face of Disappointment Peak in Grand Teton National Park.

November 25, 2022 0

Ice Cream Cone Topo – West Crack (5.7) – Grand Teton Nat. Park (2022)

The west crack of the "Ice Cream Cone" (USGS ~12,405) in Grand Teton National Park is the most popular route of ascent for southbound Grand Traverse parties. To my knowledge there is no existing topo for this route on the internet. This "post" is nothing more than a photo and route description for future parties. Bobbi Clemmer and I climbed this route as part of a longer traverse on August 21st, 2022.

September 19, 2022 0

Addicted to the Shindig – Open Book (5.9+, III) – Disappointment Peak, Grand Teton N.P. (07.24.22)

On July 24th, Liam Wylie and I climbed Open Book, a six pitch, 450 foot, grade III rock route on the southeast face of Grunt Arete, the first rock feature east of Disappointment Peak's SE Ridge, beginning in Garnet Canyon. Open Book is a Teton classic by all standards, with a stacked deck of unrelenting 5.8+ to 5.10- climbing above dramatic exposure. We finished the route in about eleven hours car to car, and had a tremendous time doing so.

July 29, 2022 7

Fun Every Time – East Ridge (5.7, II), Disappointment Peak, Grand Teton N.P. (07.09.22)

Disappointment Peak's East Ridge is perhaps the best moderate multi-pitch alpine climb in Grand Teton National Park. Ease of access combines with straightforward route finding, sound rock and epic views to create a one-of-a-kind 5.7 Teton experience. As Bobbi's first alpine climb of the year, we sought this route in hopes of landing her first true alpine lead and park summit of summer 2022.

July 18, 2022 1

Thou Shall Not Fall – Chouinard-Frost Chimney (5.9, IV) – Disappointment Peak, Grand Teton N.P. (07.10.22)

The Chouinard-Frost Chimney (5.9, IV) is a notoriously old-school rock route on the north face of 11,623 foot Disappointment Peak in Grand Teton National Park. Run-outs, loose rock, visionary traverses and a very real sense of adventure characterize this "classic" Teton route.

July 13, 2022 7

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