Rock Climbing – Ice Climbing – Ski Mountaineering
Montana's revered Hyalite Canyon is one of the best North American venues for learning mixed climbing and drytooling, two invaluable skills for serious winter climbers. Below are my five favorite beginner mixed routes in Hyalite, presented as a progression culminating with the "best single pitch mixed climb in the United States" - The Thrill Is Gone (M4+, WI4).
On October 30th I redpointed the notorious Run For Your Life (5.10b R) in Joshua Tree National Park, after taking a huge fall from the final move 24 hours earlier. This article is a trip report in essay form, examining the polarizing topic of traditional climbing ethics.
Seams Heady is a renowned 5.11b "PG" trad seam in the glacial polished granite wonderland of Teton Canyon. In 2024 I completed a ground-up redpoint with no previous inspection or beta. I learned three enlightening lessons through the process.
Come April, May, and June in North America, reliable weather forecasts for ski mountaineering are fickle, and the parameters for good ski conditions tighten. Here's my strategy for planning a great day out.
I recently had an article published by The High Route, focusing on TetonAT.com founder and local legend, Steve Romeo, my personal journey to ski mountaineering, and how Steve and I's world intertwined.
A first hand account of a "bomber" piton ripping from a rappel anchor while ski mountaineering in the remote necks of Grand Teton National Park. Amidst a growing climate of "two-piece" alpine anchors, this article presents a compelling argument for placing a third, especially when pitons are involved. Carl rappelling from four-pieces in the Tallboy's... Continue Reading →
The winter of 2021/22 was far and above my best yet. I skied more steep lines in the Tetons, with a wider array of partners, than I have in the past three seasons combined, and was left with an overwhelming sense of gratitude.
In 2015, David Gonzales wrote a popular article for POWDER Magazine titled "Is There A Better Way to Ski the Grand Teton?" in which he discusses the perilous and increasingly pressing issue of congestion on the Grand's most popular ski route, the Ford-Stettner. This article will double down on Gonzales's work, putting a microscope to the Workman-Starr Sneak and its potential to reduce overhead hazard when multiple climbers/skiers are on the mountain.
On December 27th 2021, I remotely triggered an avalanche of serious destructive magnitude while traversing a north-to-south ridgeline, at approximately 9,600 feet in the west Teton backcountry, on skis. The deep persistent slab avalanche broke with a 6-10 foot crown, ran 1,400 feet, uprooted many trees and failed on the "December 5th weak layer". Read... Continue Reading →
First and foremost, it is with a heavy heart that I solemnly offer my condolences to the family of Matthew Brien, a 33 year old Jackson local taken by the mountains far too early. 2021 was undoubtedly one of the toughest years for snow stability in the mountain west. February was the worst - haunted... Continue Reading →
Ten Thousand Too Far 