Rock Climbing – Ice Climbing – Ski Mountaineering
On Saturday the 17th of December, 2022, Colten Moore and I climbed a local-classic link-up of Squash Head (WI4, II) and Backoff (WI4, II), for a total of four stunning pitches in the beautiful and sleepy Santaquin Canyon of Utah's Uinta Mountains.
Early season ice on the south side of Teton Canyon with Connor James - Lehman's Lament (WI3R) and Green Pea (WI4+)
On Monday November 21st, 2022, Mike Parri and I walked the southern wall of Teton Canyon, scouting the Eagle Scout (Mack-Tyson) Pillar and eventually climbing Boy Scout Falls in precariously thin WI3+, M3 conditions, seemingly the first ascent of winter 2022/23.
On Saturday November 19th, 2022, Eric Boomer and I made the arduous five mile pillage into Death Canyon for one of Grand Teton National Park's finest early season ice climbs. The main flow was well formed and climbed at WI4-.
A first for Ten Thousand Too Far, this is not a trip report - but a simple conditions report on the main ice climbs at the mouth of Death Canyon in Grand Teton National Park, after a futile ice trip on November 10th, 2022.
Sifting through half written blog drafts from this past winter, I decided to finish up this short trip report for the sake of completeness - and to share some of my favorite pictures. Though far from a destination route, Boy Scout Falls provides an excellent moderate multi-pitch ice experience with easy access from the "Idaho... Continue Reading →
The Lake Louise Ice Gully is a 3-4 pitch alpine ice climb situated stunningly above Lake Louise on the eastern flank of Wyoming's Wind River Range, easily accessed from the small town of Dubois. The very wide flow is considered classic for the area and has many variations, ranging from rambling WI3 to firm WI4,... Continue Reading →
The Sentinel Ice Couloir is a two... or three... or four pitch moderate ice climb on the southern aspect of Albright Peak (north side of Death Canyon). While hardly a classic, this quirky route provides an alpine style climb in a very dramatic setting, and probably the easiest accessed pitch of grade four water ice in Grand Teton National Park. Despite the Tetons receiving a walloping of snow the past week, Connor James and I set out determined to make this long planned mission happen, no matter the powder that stood in our way.
After belaying Brian Emory on his first coveted red-point of "The Thrill" just seven days before, I returned with Scott Melin to attempt an "on-sight" lead. We climbed for two days at the Unnamed Wall and Mummy Cooler Areas, ticking ascents on Mummy II, The Matrix, Feeding The Cat, The Fat One and of course, The Thrill Is Gone. A full conditions report and photos are included.
Breaking news: Our Teton snowpack has achieved "grim" status - but luckily it's remained damn cold. Instead of futzing around on skis, Brian Emory and I took off to Bozeman for some mid-week ice climbing. I managed to lead & flash two WI-4's, my first at the grade, and Brian sent his long time project, The Thrill Is Gone (M4, WI-4). Read on for a few anecdotes and a conditions report in the Genesis and Unnamed Wall areas.
Ten Thousand Too Far 