Rock Climbing – Ice Climbing – Ski Mountaineering
"The Gap" is an unlikely quartzite climbing area just south of Pocatello, Idaho, known for long winter mixed routes up to 1200 feet rising directly from the road. Jed Porter and I unknowingly climbed a first ascent while looking for the Alpine Simulator in a winter storm - thankfully, our route was excellent! We named... Continue Reading →
A quick conditions report with photos from Teton Canyon on November 29th, 2023, with a few notes on GTNP route conditions. Today my partner and I biked into Teton Canyon in search of ice. We hiked to all the south facing climbs but didn't find anything in climbable shape. The Landslide Pillar (Waterfall Wall Area)... Continue Reading →
A bike-ice-bike kickoff to the Grand Teton National Park ice season in Cascade Canyon- a proper pump before a Tofurky feast on Indigenous People's Day.
Styrofoam Boots, also known as Spinxinated and formally the "Unknown Route", is an ephemeral gem that only forms "every decade or so" on the North Face of Sphinx Mountain. For us it was difficult and testing mixed climb of the highest quality - the route's first ascent of the season and perhaps of many years.
The North Face of Sphinx Mountain is a renowned early season ice venue outside of Cameron, Montana. The Lowe Route is the trade fare, which can be climbed anywhere from WI5 to WI3 to M5. We found it in WI4 and ever so slightly mixed conditions. First ice of the season baby!
Not a trip report. A few notes on an unsuccessful trip to the dark side of Mount Borah, with beta pictures of the North Face (AI2), Psycho Therapy (AI4, M6), Borah Borah Borah (WI3, 5.7) and some bonus ice.
A diary reflection of my second year winter climbing, with five key takeaways.
On March 25th Liam Wylie and I connected for a quick lap in the Lake Louise Ice Gully - my second time climbing this classic and aesthetic four-pitch moderate outside Dubois, WY. Spoiler alert, Liam racked up his first lead!
Fully visible from South Fork Road, Ovisight is a three pitch WI6 climb of grand proportions, dominating the upper reaches of the Legg Creek drainage with a triad of impressive free-standing pillars, all WI5 or harder.
The Moratorium (WI4) is the longest continuous waterfall ice climb (~100M, 300 feet) in the South Fork of the Shoshone River. High On Boulder is a three-pitch true classic at the WI4 grade, and when connected with the Pillar Of Pain, forms a five pitch alpine style route with two additional pitches up to WI5/6.
Ten Thousand Too Far 