A few photos and notes from three successful early season ice climbing days in Teton Canyon. The canyon is coming into shape well. A full conditions report from all TC climbs at the bottom.
It’s Time! – High Fidelity (WI3+, M4, II) – Hyalite Canyon, MT (11.17.24)
High Fidelity is a classic early season multi-pitch ice and mixed adventure in Hyalite Canyon, understated at the WI3+, M4 grade. Our thin conditions produced a climb closer to WI4, M5+. I was joined by the Alpine Peanut herself, a proud effort for her third day ever ice climbing. Winter is here!!
The Ghosts! – Right and Left (WI5 & WI4) – Teton Canyon, WY (01.05.24)
Last Friday Erik Boomer and I climbed the Right and Left Ghost Pillars in Teton Canyon, WI5 and WI4 respectively.
Still Classic – Round Two on Golden Tears (WI4+, III) – Wind River Range, WY (01.02.24)
Since returning from Christmas break in California, and still waiting for snow, it's been all about the ice. Here's a little report from the mega-classic Golden Tears (WI4+, III) with Erik Boomer. It's in great shape right now.
Two Lake Louise Ice Gully Variations – Wind River Range, WY (12.17.23)
On Sunday December 17th Erik Boomer and I climbed two variations to the standard and classic Lake Louise Ice Gully route in Wyoming's Wind River Range. Since the Gully has been well documented on Ten Thousand Too Far, this article will focus primarily on the variations, which are both exciting and unique ways to experience a classic climb from a different perspective.
Rockfall, Shoulder Tweaks and Snowy Slabs – Alpine Simulator (M4, III) – Garden Creek Gap, ID (12.13.23)
I returned to the Garden Creek Gap for the third time in 13 days to find the elusive Alpine Simulator route. Another wild quest up a 1200' sea of river polished quartzite.
Lappin’ the Gap – Ghetto Simulator (M4, 5.7, III) – Garden Creek Gap, ID (12.07.23)
The Ghetto Simulator is a six pitch route on the west side of the North Face of Garden Creek Gap, most commonly climbed as a mixed route in winter. The climb is slightly less sustained, but no less fun, than the challenging routes on the central face.
An Unknowing First Ascent – Agri-Alpinism (M5+, III) – Garden Creek Gap, ID (12.01.23)
"The Gap" is an unlikely quartzite climbing area just south of Pocatello, Idaho, known for long winter mixed routes up to 1200 feet rising directly from the road. Jed Porter and I unknowingly climbed a first ascent while looking for the Alpine Simulator in a winter storm - thankfully, our route was excellent! We named... Continue Reading →
Teton Canyon Ice Report (11.29.23)
A quick conditions report with photos from Teton Canyon on November 29th, 2023, with a few notes on GTNP route conditions. Today my partner and I biked into Teton Canyon in search of ice. We hiked to all the south facing climbs but didn't find anything in climbable shape. The Landslide Pillar (Waterfall Wall Area)... Continue Reading →
Wet Pillar Laps – Teewinot North Guillies Left (WI4+) – GTNP, WY (11.21.23)
A bike-ice-bike kickoff to the Grand Teton National Park ice season in Cascade Canyon- a proper pump before a Tofurky feast on Indigenous People's Day.