Rock Climbing – Ice Climbing – Ski Mountaineering
The Snaz is an ultra-ultra-classic 800 foot, grade IV, 5.10- rock route on the south face of Albright Peak in Grand Teton National Park, first established by Yvon Chouinard & Mort Hempel in 1964. With an emphasis on wide cracks and a big crux roof, the Snaz played to my weaknesses for a supremely challenging outing.
On July 24th, Liam Wylie and I climbed Open Book, a six pitch, 450 foot, grade III rock route on the southeast face of Grunt Arete, the first rock feature east of Disappointment Peak's SE Ridge, beginning in Garnet Canyon. Open Book is a Teton classic by all standards, with a stacked deck of unrelenting 5.8+ to 5.10- climbing above dramatic exposure. We finished the route in about eleven hours car to car, and had a tremendous time doing so.
Disappointment Peak's East Ridge is perhaps the best moderate multi-pitch alpine climb in Grand Teton National Park. Ease of access combines with straightforward route finding, sound rock and epic views to create a one-of-a-kind 5.7 Teton experience. As Bobbi's first alpine climb of the year, we sought this route in hopes of landing her first true alpine lead and park summit of summer 2022.
The Chouinard-Frost Chimney (5.9, IV) is a notoriously old-school rock route on the north face of 11,623 foot Disappointment Peak in Grand Teton National Park. Run-outs, loose rock, visionary traverses and a very real sense of adventure characterize this "classic" Teton route.
On June 8th, 2022, Carl Osterburg and I skied the Grand Teton via the traditional "Ford-Stettner Couloir" Route. This was Carl's first and my fourth Grand Teton ski descent, a mission propelled by one sole purpose, enjoying a final day in the mountains with my best Teton friend before he packs up and moves to Minnesota. Can you think of a better sendoff? I can't, because there isn't one.
The winter of 2021/22 was far and above my best yet. I skied more steep lines in the Tetons, with a wider array of partners, than I have in the past three seasons combined, and was left with an overwhelming sense of gratitude.
Sifting through half written blog drafts from this past winter, I decided to finish up this short trip report for the sake of completeness - and to share some of my favorite pictures. Though far from a destination route, Boy Scout Falls provides an excellent moderate multi-pitch ice experience with easy access from the "Idaho... Continue Reading →
A reflective article from the winter of 2021/22, my first true season of ice, mixed and technical alpine winter climbing.
May 18th, 2022 saw my second summit ski descent of the East Face of Teewinot Mountain. Sustained 45+ degree face skiing above terraced cliffs and a 400 foot wide upper bowl funneling through a ski-width choke characterize this extremely classic Teton ski mountaineering objective. Connor James and I took advantage of the newly cleared Lupine... Continue Reading →
A simple photo journal of three great days climbing around Moab with John Modlish and Mila Deych on their way out of town. As a crew of four we climbed two buttes in Canyonlands National Park, Canyon Point and The Sphinx, and enjoyed three days of roadside cragging at Wall Street, where Bobbi Clemmer projected... Continue Reading →
Ten Thousand Too Far 