The hanging WI5-6 dagger of "Mummy Four" stands as the single most impressive ice formation on the east side of Hyalite Canyon besides the ever famous Winter Dance. To reach it, Chris Hackbarth and I climbed the Scepter (WI5) and "Mummy Three" (M6, WI3) in what turned out to be an excellent grade three kind-of day in Hyalite Canyon - an alpine style climb in the land known for short approach ice cragging.
An Argument For Three-Piece Bail Anchors – Piton Rips on Rappel – First Hand Account [opinions]
A first hand account of a "bomber" piton ripping from a rappel anchor while ski mountaineering in the remote necks of Grand Teton National Park. Amidst a growing climate of "two-piece" alpine anchors, this article presents a compelling argument for placing a third, especially when pitons are involved. Carl rappelling from four-pieces in the Tallboy's... Continue Reading →
Sub-Four Hours in the Four Hour Couloir (+ recon photos) – Shadow Peak/Nez Perce, Grand Teton N.P. (12.16.22)
On December 16th I got out for my first steep ski of 2022/23 in the ever-popular Four Hour Couloir on Shadow Peak. Not surprisingly it was well hacked by at least three parties, but the snow was soft enough for an enjoyable and quick morning lap before heading off to Utah for Christmas break. This was my third time skiing the Four Hour. Recon photos of the Sliver Couloir included.
A Classic Wasatch Ice Linkup – Squash Head (WI4, II) and Backoff (WI4, II) – Santaquin Canyon, UT (12.17.22)
On Saturday the 17th of December, 2022, Colten Moore and I climbed a local-classic link-up of Squash Head (WI4, II) and Backoff (WI4, II), for a total of four stunning pitches in the beautiful and sleepy Santaquin Canyon of Utah's Uinta Mountains.
South Side Exploration – Lehman’s Lament (Grand Wall, WI3-4), Green Pea Pillar (WI4+) and South Wall Conditions Report – Teton Canyon, WY (12.10.22)
Early season ice on the south side of Teton Canyon with Connor James - Lehman's Lament (WI3R) and Green Pea (WI4+)
Are You Ready? – 2018 Stoke From The Spoon Couloir – Disappointment Peak, Grand Teton Nat. Park (Feb. 2018)
As the 2022/23 winter is slow to ramp up, and I'm still spending time digesting my Thanksgiving meal with family, I figured I would add this short bight from what was perhaps my first "real" Teton ski mountaineering descent - the famed Spoon Couloir on Disappointment Peak - circa 2018. Are you ready? (trip report... Continue Reading →
[NEW] Chouinard-Frost Chimney (5.9+, IV) Topo – Disappointment Peak, North Face, Grand Teton Nat. Park (2022)
An updated and thorough topo of the Chouinard-Frost Chimney on the north face of Disappointment Peak in Grand Teton National Park.
Early Ice in Teton Canyon – Boy Scout Falls (WI3, M3, R) Trip Report & Eagle Scout Conditions Report (11.24.22)
On Monday November 21st, 2022, Mike Parri and I walked the southern wall of Teton Canyon, scouting the Eagle Scout (Mack-Tyson) Pillar and eventually climbing Boy Scout Falls in precariously thin WI3+, M3 conditions, seemingly the first ascent of winter 2022/23.
Day One Pump – Prospector Falls (WI4, II) – Death Canyon South, Grand Teton Nat. Park (11.19.22)
On Saturday November 19th, 2022, Eric Boomer and I made the arduous five mile pillage into Death Canyon for one of Grand Teton National Park's finest early season ice climbs. The main flow was well formed and climbed at WI4-.
Death Canyon Early Season Ice Report, Grand Teton National Park (11.10.22)
A first for Ten Thousand Too Far, this is not a trip report - but a simple conditions report on the main ice climbs at the mouth of Death Canyon in Grand Teton National Park, after a futile ice trip on November 10th, 2022.