A quick conditions report with photos from Teton Canyon on November 29th, 2023, with a few notes on GTNP route conditions.
Today my partner and I biked into Teton Canyon in search of ice. We hiked to all the south facing climbs but didn’t find anything in climbable shape. The Landslide Pillar (Waterfall Wall Area) was the most promising yet was actively pouring with water – much worse than it appears from the trail. The road was mostly packed snow after the first mile of dirt, but bicycles still seemed the most efficient mode of transportation. The sun was blazing and ambient temperatures reached the mid forties. Lots of water was pouring down the south facing climbs. All we need is a little shade and a cold snap. Here’s a breakdown by route with photos. Chao.
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Eagle Scout Pillar
People have been on the mixed climbs for weeks, but I haven’t heard of a pillar ascent. Wuhan Wet Market (M4) is reported to have some, but minimal, ice. There appeared to be black rock poking through the ice towards the top, indicative of a difficult top-out. The pillar itself is touching and voluptuous, but perhaps not well bonded? However, by far the most promising in the canyon.
Boy Scout Falls
No signs of ice.
Reunion Falls
Ice to the ground but appears thin.
Right Ghost
Hard to tell, likely minimal.
Left Ghost
The pillar is touching, but looks quite skinny compared to primetime conditions and is showing rock near the top.
Lehman’s Lament (Grand Wall)
Some vertical ice towards the top of pitch two. Lower 5.7 rock slabs are dry.
Green Pea
Discontinuous albeit large hanging daggers. Probably soon to touch, and quick to bulk out with lots of running water.
Landslide (Waterfall Wall Area)
Right option of pitch one unformed. Left option of pitch one formed but quite thin, probably not climbable. Upper pillar looks better from the trail than it actually is. While there is a surprising amount of ice, the quality is disappointing – very new, very very very wet and very uninspiring.
Grand Teton National Park Climbs
Prospector Falls is in and has been climbed many times to the fourth pitch. Teewinot North Gullies Left is quickly bulking out and currently about WI3+ conditions. South facing Cascade Canyon climbs are all out. South facing Death Canyon climbs are almost certainly out.
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DISCLAIMER
Ski mountaineering, rock climbing, ice climbing and all other forms of mountain recreation are inherently dangerous. Should you decide to attempt anything you read about in this article, you are doing so at your own risk! This article is written to the best possible level of accuracy and detail, but I am only human – information could be presented wrong. Furthermore, conditions in the mountains are subject to change at any time. Ten Thousand Too Far and Brandon Wanthal are not liable for any actions or repercussions acted upon or suffered from the result of this article’s reading.
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